As one of the oldest provinces in the country inhabited by a devout and faithful people, Bohol is noteworthy for its sheer number of antiquated churches, most dating back to the early years of the Spanish Era. With their unique and enigmatic architecture preserved through the ages, these churches continue to awe visitors, drawing pilgrims and devotees from all parts of the Philippines and beyond. The following are just some of these amazing structures:
Sta. Monica Parish – Alburquerque
Boholanos call the town "Albur." Located along the highway is the church complex built on a low knoll. The Albur parish was established in 1869 after being separated from Baclayon, Bohol. A 1886 report indicates that the church was built of light materials, however, the convento described as "de grandes dimensiones" was already standing. This way made of rubble, wood and tabique. The date of the construction of the church is uncertain, although, the generous use of reinforced concrete for the façade and the bell tower (which is integrated into the façade) indicates that the church was either being built or renovated in the 20th century. The church interior has been renovated. The large convento to the side of the church is connected by a bridge to the church. The whole complex is harmonized by a series of arches that link church, bridge and convento.
The Nuestra Señora Del Rosario parish of Antequera – Antequera
Founded in 1880, the church by this date was of tabique pampango and other light material. The present church at Antequera is new and unremarkable but people go to Antequera to experience a different kind of heritage: traditional basketry. Basketry is an ancient art form, archaeologists theorize that basket making preceded weaving. Most exquisite baskets found in the Visayas and even in Luzon, come from Bohol. Every conceivable forest material is made into baskets which are available wholesale or retail at the Sunday morning market at Antequera.
The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception – Baclayon
The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is considered to be one of the oldest churches in the Philippines. It is one of the best persevered Jesuit build churches in the region, although in the 19th century, the Augustinian Recollects added a modern facade and a number of stone buildings that now surround the church.
Next to the church is the old convent, which also houses a small museum with centuries-old religious relics, artifacts and other antiquities, dating back to the 16th century. Included in the collection are an ivory statue of the crucified Christ looking towards heaven; a statue of the Blessed Virgin, said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon; relics of St. Ignatius of Loyola, old gold embroidered ecclesiastical vestments, books with carabao skin covers, and librettos of church music written in Latin on sheep skins. Here you can also find the cuadro paintings made by the Filipino painter Liberato Gatchalian in 1859.
Nuestra Señora del Carmen Parish – Balilihan
Built in 1840 and located on a hill beside the church, the tower located about 20 kilometers upstream of the Abatan river also serves a watchtower against marauding bands. The church located at the foot of the hill is new, although the parish was founded in 1829.
Heritage features: Rising to four stories, with no clear divisions between floors, the quadrilateral bell tower used to be sheathed with cut coral. Its fenestrations are few concentrated mostly on the uppermost floor, where the arched opening are decorated by scroll work and floral designs. The whole structure has a hip roof with wide overhangs, supported by carved corbels. The structure had a tile roof but like the rest of the tower is in disrepair. The bells of the tower have been removed and are in a new bell tower beside the church at the foot of the hill.
Calape Church
Calape church is a good example how colonial styles persisted even if the Spaniards who promoted them had already left. Jose (2001, 34) describes the church as the “epitome of Bohol Gothic.” All of the structure is basically a lintel and post type, gothic features like lancet arches, rose window, spires and crockets are merely decorative. The pediment has a rose window although it functions as an ornament rather than a real opening to the church interior. A typical Bohol feature, but definitely not gothic, is the portico built in front of the façade, an extension of the choir loft. Gothicizing elements are found in the interior on the altars and event the confessionals. The transept is an addition to the original plan and is rather narrow. The church is attributed to two builders, Eliseo Josol y Villamayor and Rosalio Real y Oppus, were said to have been shown a picture of the Santo Domingo church in Intramuros, which they used as a model.
A historic bell dated 1690 and dedicated to St. John the Baptist by Bachiller Juan Alfonso Ruiz, is found in the bell tower. This bell came from the defunct Parian parish in Cebu, ordered dissolved, resulting in the demolition of the church in 1878-79.
St. Michael the Archangel – Clarin
Originally named Can-ogong, Clarin was established as a parish in honor of St. Michael the Archangel in 1924, after being a visita of Inabanga in 1852, and of Tubigon in 1881. Clarin was established a town in 1921 and named after Aniceto Clarin, Bohol’s first civil governor. The Recollects administered the parish from 1927–37 and were succeeded by the seculars. The church traces to the 1920s when Recollects built over a provisional church raised in 1924. In 1952, the roof and walls were raised and in 1955 another register was added to the bell tower. This was damaged in an earthquake of 1996 and had to be torn down and replaced with a more stable structure.
The church made of poured concrete continues the neogothic style prevalent in Bohol with a central tower in front of the façade, which serves both a bell tower and portico. Lancet windows, finials, and other Gothic motifs are expressed in cement.
Cortes Church
Perched on the slope of a low hill, the town of Cortes gives its church a dramatic setting. Shaped as a cruciform, Cortes Church is of cut coral has an octagonal crossing tower. Floral carving frame the doorway, and a light pink plaster can still be seen suggesting that the façade was more colorful than it is now. The interior is dominated by the painted ceiling done by Ray Francia. The main retablo has twisted Solomonic columns and profusely carved flanges in the Baroque idiom, a contrast to the otherwise revivalist line of the church. The Cortes church is located on top of a hill. Like most Bohol churches, the Cortes church has a portico in front of an older façade.
Church of Our Lady of the Assumption – Dauis
Another beautiful church in Bohol is the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption in Dauis, Bohol, on the Island of Panglao. It is located not far from the bridge that connects Panglao with Bohol. The church was founded by the Jesuits Fr. Diego de Ayala and Joseph Gregorio. The church is built in a mixture of styles, influenced by both Byzantine and Romanesque architecture. Inside, on the ceiling, are some impressive frescoes painted Ray Francia in 1916. Lito Arraya renovated the building in 1970. The church's patron saint, the Virgin of the Assumption, is said to possess miraculous powers. An old legend relates that once, when the town was invaded by pirates, the people of Dauis locked themselves into the church. However, they soon ran out of provisions and water. Then a miracle occurred: a well appeared at the foot of the altar. This same well is still the main source of water for the people living close to the church, and, although the well is only a few meters from the sea, the water is absolutely fresh. The water is said to have healing powers.
This is one of Bohol’s beautiful churches, which has retained its Spanish architecture although it has a semi-modern façade. The church is a nice three kilometer walk from Tagbilaran City. Alternatively, visitors may catch a tricycle or jeepney to bring them across.
The San Nicolas Tolentino Parish – Dimiao
The San Nicolas Tolentino parish is in Dimiao, Bohol. The date of the parish's foundation is uncertain, although by 1750 there are records of baptism in the parish. The church may have been built toward the latter half of the 19th century. The structure of cut stone is cruciform, though its transept is short. The façade can be described as Neobaroque. Although classical overall, shallow reliefs of flowers arranged as vertical bands decorate the façade. The façade is flanked by twin octagonal towers.
Its heritage features are described as follows: The church interior is simple, coming to a focus at the neoclassical altars. One of the side altars is missing. The convento is located behind the church and is now a school. Beside the church are the ruins of what appears to be cemetery and two mortuary chapels. Archaeological excavations in the area have uncovered very little remains, probably the site was never used.
Duero Church
Designed in the “Greek temple” revival style is one of the few churches in such style (Anda, Dumaguete, and Malabon designed by Luciano Oliver in 1861 among them). But what sets Duero apart is the generous use of wood. Indeed, it is one of the few surviving “gems of Philippine architecture in wood” (Jose 2001, 50). Although Fray Isidoro Musitu (1891–97) had the mortar covered with cement, the tabique walls enclosed in zinc sheets and the interior embellished, much of the original structure still exists. Originally, the walls were made of double walls of wood planks, with planks set vertically in the inner wall and horizontally in the outer.
Like the church, the bell tower a separate structure joined by a bridge has a lower story of mortar and an upper story of wood and zinc sheets. The 1920s zinc sheets inscribed “Wolverhampton” is still in place. The interior is a symphony in wood: wooden floors, wooden ceiling originally painted with an artesonado design (coffered ceiling) with alternating rosettes and concentric circles. The crossing’s ceiling is quite shallow with a carved pineapple dangling from its center whence a chandelier hangs. The wooden retablos are in neoclassical style.
Garcia Hernandez Church
The present church was commenced in 1880 and completed in 1896, replacing an earlier church. However, an earthquake in 1990 damaged the façade. The rebuilt façade is in a completely new style unsympathetic to the older church. The interior has a main nave flanked by side aisles. A Doric frieze runs across the church. The device of the frieze and fluted columns are used in the retablo mayor.
Guindulman Church
The present church is of mixed material, the lower register of coral stone and the upper of concrete, reflecting the long time it took to complete it. A portico was built in front of the façade and supports a balcony. The church interior is relatively bare, with ornaments from the 1950s and 60s. The 1877 convento beside the church is separated by a road and is now used as a school.
Inabanga Church
The church is ideally situated on an elevated area, the highest point in town. Stone embankments protect the site. An earlier church of stone was built during Jesuit times but it was burnt probably during the Dagohoy revolt. Redondo (1886, 181) reports that the church was in bad condition and so was the adjoining convento. A new stone church was completed in 1899 but this was burnt by Americans in 1902 in retaliation for the attack on the garrison at Tubigon. The church is composed of various materials, the last being concrete, introduced by the secular priest Fr. Quiterio Sarigumba in 1931. The church uses gothic elements in the façade and has a portico in front of the entrance. The interior is disappointingly modern, except for an exquisite wooden tabernacle probably from Jesuit times and the murals of the Garces brothers, done in the style of Canuto Avila and Ray Francia.
San Miguel Arcángel Parish – Jagna
The present church of Jagna is greatly renovated. After suffering damage from a typhoon in the 1980s, its façade was heavily plastered with cement. The façade is embellished with a pointed arch reminiscent of Gothic. The church interior is also renovated.
Jetafe Church
The Jetafe church façade resembles that of Tubigon, where a central tower houses the bells on the upper story and the lower story forms a portico before the main entrance. It resembles early Florentine Renaissance churches. The church follows the basilica plan with a central nave flanked by aisles.
Lila Church
A parish named in honor the Virgin of the Holy Rosary, Lila, Bohol was under Dimiao, Bohol until it became an independent parish. Originally located at Macahugan where a church and convento had been built, the town was transferred to its present site in 1871. A church of tabique and wood was destroyed when American troops burnt Lila to the ground in 1901. The town was re-established in 1915.
A heritage site, the present church was built during the term of Fr. Francisco Maglasang (1918-360). Completed in 1925, it is of poured concrete. Typical of Bohol churches it has a portico, which is flanked by bell towers. The interior is divided by a colonnade into a central nave with flanking aisles. The altars, inspired by neoclassic lines and the ceiling paintings demonstrate the persistence of the colonial idiom into the 20th century. A number of old stone bridges traversing the provincial road can be found.
Santissima Trinidad Parish – Loay
The church is cruciform, has two facades: the older is decorated with low relief and the newer was apparently completed in the 20th century as its upper register is in reinforced concrete. The whole is surmounted by cement statues depicting the virtues. The bell tower is a separate structure built at a short distance from the church. Like many Bohol churches the interior is painted with trompe o'eil and with Biblical scenes. The altars are in the neoclassical style.
San Pedro y San Pablo Parish – Loboc
The Loboc church is decorated with carvings of cherubs, the Papal tiara and emblems of the Jesuit. It has two facades: the Jesuit-built Baroque façade decorated with unfinished medallions depicting saints and the neoclassical portico added by the Recollects. Although main altar is Neoclassical, two side altars are Baroque and two at the transept ends are put together from several parts, creating a syncretism style. Many of the saints of Jesuit devotion have been replaced by saints of Recollect devotion except for the image of San Francisco Xavier found at the side altar to the right of the main altar. Hidden by the main altar, is a bas relief of San Ignacio and San Francisco Xavier done in stucco (reminders that this was once a Jesuit church).
The Church of Our Lady of Light – Loon
The Church of Our Lady of Light in Loon, Bohol is the biggest church in Bohol. At the spot of the current church, a chapel was constructed during the term of Fray Manuel de Elizalde in 1753. Some fifty years later, the Augustinian Recollects replaced the current church in Ionic and Corinthian styles. The building has two octagonal bell towers, and is fully symmetric. From Loon Church leads of long four-flight stairway of 174 stone steps, which connects to Napo, the former seat of the town. Wood to build the church was carried from the forest of Maitum by forced laborers, who had to beat their way through uncharted trails and across rivers.
Nuestra Señora de la Luz Parish – Loon
The central portion of the church facade surges forward giving it a dynamism more akin to Baroque than the Neoclassical style prevalent during this period. Delicately though inaccurately carved acanthus decorate the capitals of the twined columns of the facade. Between the twined columns are plaques incised with Biblical texts and dedicatory phrases. The facade's balanced composition is completed by twin towers that flank it.
Santa Cruz Parish – Maribojoc
Unlike other churches, the convento of Maribojoc is located behind the church rather than at its side. This gives the convento an unobstructed view of the sea, especially from the balcony that runs the length of the convento. The convento is approached through the sacristy and is a continuation of it. Above the sacristy is a room which has been converted to the Maribojoc museum.
The church is planned as cruciform. Its façade is plain, decorated by thin pilasters and niches with images of saints. The interior comes as a surprise because of the three Neogothic altars in the church. The traceries and finials of gilded hardwood are delicately carved. The main altar has an image of the Blessed Trinity and bas relieves of the life of Mary Magdalene. The church ceiling is made of metal and painted with catechetical and liturgical motifs.
San Agustin Parish – Panglao
According to one authority, Panglao, Bohol was established a parish 1782, although the Recollects record that they took charge of the town in 1803. A 20th-century church stands beside the ruins of an older church, probably one built by the Jesuits. Whatever remains of the older façade indicate that it may have been Baroque in design. This church was ruined before in 1886, when it is reported that a provisional church of wood and tabique was constructed. To the rear of the ruins and at some distance, stand a five story bell tower/ watch tower built 1851. Octagonal in plan and covered by pitched roof, the tower is said to be the tallest of its kind in the country. The tower is in bad state and needs immediate intervention for its conservation.
Cathedral of San José – Tagbilaran City
Despite frequent renovations, some historic pieces still remain. Apparently, side altars from an older church were saved, because the two remaining in the church are in the 18th century Baroque style. The central altar, decorated with symbols from the Old Testament is in the 19th century Neoclassical style. The statue of San Jose, the patron of the church is apparently of 18th century vintage. The church has a good collection of ancient church documents, including a fragment of an 18th century Visayan dictionary.
Grace Christian Church – Tagbilaran City
There is also a Christian church located in Tagbilaran. Its name is Grace Christian Church. “When gratitude for the Word of God motivates a believer to give, he has the privilege of contributing to the dissemination of Bible Doctrine."
Talibon Church
The church of Talibon as built hews closely to the Escondrillas’ plan. However, the architect’s sedate plan for the façade’s was overtaken by a virtuoso display of the stone carver’s art. Columns are sheathed in garlands of leaves. The façade’s rich ornamentation is unfortunately not carried into the plain interior. Talibon with the advocacy of the Most Holy Trinity is the cathedral of the diocese of Talibon, erected in 9 January 1986.
Tubigon Church
The church is follows the basilical plan of a central nave with aisles, however, it has a transept, and crossing is covered by an octagonal cupola. The church fabric shows a mixture of materials, the upper part of the wall and most of the façade is concrete, however, the lower part is of rubble bound by lime mortar. Metal sheet are also used in the upper section of the nave. Jose (2001, 100) opines that these modern material were applied between 1928 and 1934, when the bell tower was made.
The nave is covered with metal ceiling decorated by Ray Francia from Cebu, his signature is found over the gospel or left transept. With Canuto Avila, Francia was commissioned by the Cebu bishops to paint the churches of Bohol in the 1920s and 30s. These paintings were mostly derived from holy pictures and illustrations from catechism and Bible histories.
At the exterior of the gospel flank, the mortar has been exposed to reveal the presence of stout posts or haligi that support the church’s roof. These posts are embedded in the mortar of the church fabric.
Ubay Church
The present church is of new construction. While parts of the apse, narthex and entrances to the transept belong to a 1920’s church, the rest were rebuilt when a typhoon damaged the church in 1968.
The Parish of Santo Ñino – Valencia
The church is cruciform with a steep roof and a pyramidal crossing tower. Cut stone is used in parts of the church like the façade, however, concrete is found elsewhere. The real treasure of the church is its wooden floor of alternating dark (tindalo or balayong) and light (molave or tugas) wood planks. At the transept crossing an eight pointed flower design is used for the floor while, a herringbone pattern is used elsewhere. The interior is unpainted, unlike most Bohol churches and has altars in the neoclassical idiom. The convento is located not beside the church as customary but across the street. This structure was renovated in the 19th century.
Corella Church
The people of Corella are predominantly conservative Roman Catholics who belong to the Parish of Our Lady of the Village (Latin: Nuestra Señora del Villar) whose feast is celebrated on April 27, only four days before the Feast of St. Joseph, the patron saint of Tagbilaran City celebrated on May 1.
The stone church and the convent were constructed during the tenure of Fray Felix Gullen and completed by later priests, one of them being Fray Dionisio Llorete who also spearheaded the erection of two stone school building and the municipal building during the term of the gobernadorcillo, Celedonio Sayon. But the construction of Corella’s present concrete church has begun in 1924 under Fr. Pedro Montelbon, the Parish priest of Tagbilaran who took over the administration of the Corella parish after the incumbent, Fr. Eugenio Desamparados left.
Anda Church
The town was formerly called Quinale. Renamed Anda in honor of Simón de Anda y Salazar who resisted British occupation in 1762-64, becoming governor general in 1769, the town was created in 1876 and the parish in 1885. The Recollects were in charge of Anda until 1898, and by special request of the people returned in 1902 until finally leaving in 1937. The town was burnt by American after revolutionaries but the church was spared because of the pleas of the parish priest.
Heritage site: The church faces the beach, separated from it by a wide-open field. An older tabique church, probably the same one reported by Redondo (1886, 183) is said to have stood slightly across the convento. The change in colonial government in 1898 stopped the collection of material for a new church; begun as early as 1886, however in 1926 the church was completed under the direction of Fr. Carlos Ortuoste. The church is cruciform with a plain and austere façade enlivened by doors and windows. The interior however is a pleasant surprise with the colorful ceiling paintings by Ray Francia, the retablos the use Greco-Roman motifs, and the Art Deco confessionals. The adjoining convento was built in the 1880s and completed a decade later.
Alicia Church
The people in the Alicia Town are born as a Roman Catholics. The church of Alicia servers as a refuge of the townspeole's faith. San Joaquin is the patron saint in the town where the locals celebrate its feast day every year on August 15.
How to get there
From Manila, the trip to Tagbilaran takes about an hour or so by plane. By sea it takes a little over a day.